The Ultimate New Pet Parent Checklist

What should you do before you adopt a dog or cat?

Start with the life you actually have, not the life you hope a pet will create. A young herding dog may be lovely, but if you work long shifts and want quiet evenings, that match may be hard on both of you. A shy adult cat may be a better fit than a kitten if your home is calm and you are gone during the day.

The AVMA recommends thinking through your household, schedule, space, and resources before choosing a pet. That sounds basic, but it prevents many first week problems. Before you fall in love with a photo, ask what daily life with that animal will look like on a normal Tuesday.

If you are still searching, you can browse adoptable pets on Paaw or search for adoptable pets by city or breed. You can also find shelters and rescues near you and ask which animals may fit your home. Be honest about kids, stairs, your work hours, your yard, allergies, noise limits, and other pets.

Ask the shelter or rescue these questions before you say yes:

• What is known about this pet's age, weight, breed mix, and energy level?
• Has this pet lived with kids, dogs, cats, or small animals?
• Does the pet have any known medical needs, past injuries, allergies, or current medications?
• What food is the pet eating now, and how much are they eating each day?
• Are there behavior notes, such as fear of men, guarding food, leash reactivity, hiding, scratching furniture, or litter box issues?
• Is the pet spayed or neutered, microchipped, and current on vaccines and parasite prevention?
• What support does the shelter offer after adoption if you have questions?

For dogs, ask about leash skills, crate history, potty routine, separation stress, and how the dog handles new people. For cats, ask about litter preferences, scratching habits, hiding behavior, and whether the cat has lived indoors only. If you are considering a dog, Paaw has a deeper guide on what to know before adopting a shelter dog.

Also decide who does what before the pet comes home. Who feeds breakfast? Who walks the dog at 6 a.m.? Who cleans the litter box? Who calls the vet? If everyone in the home thinks someone else is handling it, the first week gets messy fast.

Once you apply, keep an eye on messages and next steps. If you are not sure what happens after an inquiry, read what happens after you submit an adoption request. Many rescues are volunteer run, so a clear, kind response helps everyone move faster.

What should you buy before your new pet comes home?

Buy the boring things first. Your new dog or cat needs safe transport, food, water, a bathroom setup, a place to sleep, and cleaning supplies before they need a costume, a camera, or ten kinds of toys. You can add comfort items once you see what your pet actually likes.

For dogs, have these ready before pickup day:

• A secure collar or harness, a 4 to 6 foot leash, and an ID tag with your phone number.
• The food they are eating now, plus simple treats for training.
• Food and water bowls that are easy to wash.
• A bed, washable blanket, or crate if the dog is already crate trained.
• Poop bags, an enzyme cleaner for accidents, and old towels.
• A few safe toys, such as a soft toy, a chew approved for the dog's size, and a food puzzle.
• Basic grooming items, such as a brush and nail trimmer, though nail trimming can wait if you are nervous.

For cats, have these ready before pickup day:

• A hard sided or sturdy soft sided carrier that closes securely.
• The food they are eating now, plus food and water bowls.
• A litter box, litter scoop, trash bags, and the same style of litter if you can get it.
• One or two scratching options, such as a cardboard scratcher and a post.
• A bed or soft blanket, plus hiding spots like a box or covered bed.
• A few simple toys, such as wand toys and small balls, used only when supervised if strings are attached.
• An enzyme cleaner for urine, vomit, or stool accidents.

ASPCA dog care guidance and ASPCA cat care guidance both start with everyday basics: food, water, safe shelter, exercise or play, grooming, and veterinary care. Fancy gear is optional. A safe routine is not.

If you are adopting a cat, litter choice matters more than many people expect. Most cats prefer a clean box with a texture that feels familiar, so do not make five changes at once. If you plan to try a new litter, mix it in slowly after your cat is eating, drinking, and using the box normally.

Do not buy a huge bag of new food before adoption. Ask for the current food and buy enough for at least one week. You can transition later if your vet agrees and your pet's stomach is settled.

How do you pet proof your home before adoption?

Pet proofing is not about making your home perfect. It is about making the first week boring and safe. A stressed dog may chew something odd, and a scared cat may wedge behind an appliance you did not know had a gap.

Walk through your home at pet height. For dogs, get low and look for cords, shoes, kids' toys, dropped pills, trash cans, and food on counters. For cats, look up as well as down. Cats climb shelves, window sills, laundry machines, and kitchen counters when they are nervous or curious.

Start with the high risk items:

• Put all medications, vitamins, cannabis products, nicotine, cleaning supplies, and chemicals behind closed doors.
• Move chocolate, grapes, raisins, xylitol gum, onions, garlic, alcohol, and loose snacks out of reach.
• Cover or unplug dangling cords, chargers, and blinds cords.
• Close toilet lids, especially for small pets and curious cats.
• Use trash cans with lids, or place trash behind a cabinet door.
• Pick up hair ties, rubber bands, sewing thread, coins, batteries, small toys, and bones from cooked meat.
• Secure window screens and keep upper floor windows closed until you know your pet.
• Block fireplaces, balconies, crawl spaces, and gaps behind heavy furniture.

Plants deserve their own pass. Lilies can be dangerous for cats, and many common houseplants can upset or poison pets. Check your plants against the ASPCA toxic and non-toxic plant list, and read Paaw's guide to toxic plants for cats and dogs before you decide what stays.

Then think about exits. Many newly adopted pets bolt through doors, slip collars, or hide in garages because they do not yet understand that your home is their home. Keep exterior doors closed, warn visitors not to hold doors open, and consider using baby gates or closed rooms as an extra buffer.

If your dog will spend time in a fenced yard, inspect the fence before the dog arrives. Look for loose boards, gaps under gates, low spots, stacked items near the fence, and latches a child might leave open. A GPS collar or tracker can add peace of mind for some dogs, but it does not replace a leash, an ID tag, a microchip, and good door habits.

For a deeper home setup walkthrough, read how to prepare your home for a rescue animal. Do the biggest safety work before pickup day. You will be tired when you get home, and your pet will not wait while you move the trash can.

How should you set up a safe first night space?

Your new pet needs a landing zone, not full access to the whole house. Too much space can feel like too much information. A smaller, quiet area helps you control hazards and helps your pet learn where to eat, sleep, hide, and use the bathroom.

For a cat, choose one quiet room with a door that closes. A bedroom, office, or spare bathroom can work if it is safe and comfortable. Set up food and water away from the litter box, and place the litter box where the cat can reach it without crossing a busy room.

A good cat first room includes:

• A litter box with familiar litter if possible.
• Food and water in separate bowls.
• At least two hiding spots, such as a box, covered bed, or open carrier with a towel inside.
• A scratching surface near where the cat may stretch after resting.
• A few quiet toys, not noisy toys that roll under furniture.
• A night light if the room is very dark and unfamiliar.

Do not drag a hiding cat out to meet people. Sit nearby, talk softly, and let the cat decide when to come out. Some cats explore within an hour. Others hide for a day or two, especially after a shelter stay or a long transport. Paaw has a full guide to helping a new cat adjust to your home if your cat is staying under the bed.

For a dog, set up a calm sleeping area before you arrive home. A crate can be helpful if the dog is already crate trained or the shelter says the dog rests well in one. If the dog has no crate history, do not lock them in for hours on the first night and hope they figure it out. Use a bed, playpen, gated kitchen, or your bedroom if that is safer and calmer.

Your dog's first night area should have water access unless your vet or shelter gave different instructions, a washable bed or blanket, and a clear route for potty breaks. Keep the leash near the door. Many dogs need to go out more often than usual on the first night because stress, new food, and new smells can change bathroom timing.

Pick one sleeping plan and try to stick with it for a few nights. If you let the dog sleep in your bed on night one, that may become the expected routine. If you want the dog to sleep nearby but not on the bed, place the bed or crate close enough that you can reassure them without turning bedtime into a party.

What food, vet records, and medical care do you need right away?

Collect records before you leave the shelter or rescue. You want the adoption contract, vaccine history, deworming and flea or tick prevention dates, heartworm test results for dogs when available, FeLV or FIV test results for cats when available, spay or neuter status, microchip number, and any medication instructions. Take photos of paper records in case they get lost in the car.

Schedule a first vet visit soon after adoption, often within the first week or two, or sooner if the shelter recommends it. Puppies, kittens, seniors, pets on medication, and pets with coughing, diarrhea, skin problems, limping, or weight loss should be seen sooner. Your vet can confirm what vaccines are still due, talk about parasite prevention, check the microchip, and help you plan food, weight, dental care, and behavior support.

The CDC's healthy pets guidance stresses routine veterinary care, handwashing, and safe handling of pet waste to protect both people and animals. That matters in the first week because stress can make mild issues more noticeable. Wash hands after cleaning litter boxes, picking up stool, or handling vomit, and teach kids to do the same.

Keep food simple at first. Feed the same food the pet was eating at the shelter or foster home for several days if you can. If you want to change foods, transition gradually by mixing small amounts of the new food into the old food over about a week, unless your vet gives a different plan. For dogs, Paaw has more detail on what to feed a newly adopted dog.

Ask your vet or the shelter these medical questions:

• What vaccines has my pet had, and when are boosters due?
• What parasite prevention should my pet be on for my area and lifestyle?
• Is my pet already spayed or neutered, and if not, what is the plan?
• Is the microchip registered to me, and is my phone number correct?
• What symptoms should make me call right away?
• Does my pet need a special diet, medication refill, or recheck?

A quiet first day, a smaller appetite, or one loose stool can happen during a stressful move. Still, do not talk yourself out of calling a vet if your gut says something is wrong. New adopters do not always know what is normal for this animal yet, and a quick call can help you decide whether to monitor, book an appointment, or go in now.

You may also be thinking about insurance. It will not replace an emergency fund, and it does not guarantee a claim will be covered, but it can be worth comparing before a problem appears in the medical record. Paaw's guide on whether you really need pet insurance can help you think through the tradeoffs.

What should happen on pickup day and the ride home?

Pickup day should be simple: get the pet, confirm the records, and go straight home. Do not plan a pet store trip, coffee stop, family visit, or dog park visit on the way. Your new pet has already had a big day before the car even starts.

Before you leave home, check that you have the right transport setup. Cats should ride in a closed carrier, not in someone's arms. Small dogs often do best in a carrier or secured crate. Larger dogs should have a well fitted harness or collar and leash before the car door opens.

Bring these items with you:

• A carrier for a cat or small dog, or a secure leash and harness for a dog.
• An ID tag already attached to the collar, with your phone number.
• Towels or washable blankets for the carrier or car seat.
• Poop bags and cleaning wipes.
• A copy of pickup instructions and the shelter's contact information.
• A second adult if you are picking up a nervous or larger dog and can bring help.

An ID tag should be ready before pickup, not ordered later that night. Newly adopted pets are often at higher escape risk before they know your voice, your door, your yard, or their new name. A simple tag with your phone number can help a good neighbor call you fast if your pet slips away.

Keep voices low at pickup. Ask last questions, but do not make the lobby your first training session. If the shelter staff or foster caregiver gives advice that differs from your plan, listen closely. They may know that this dog panics at automatic doors or that this cat tries to push through carrier zippers.

In the car, keep the pet contained. Do not open a cat carrier to comfort the cat. Do not let a dog hang out an open window or ride loose in your lap. If your dog pants, drools, whines, or will not settle, drive calmly and keep going home unless there is a true medical concern.

Once you arrive, move from car to house with the same secure setup. For dogs, keep the leash on until you are safely inside or in a fully fenced area you have already checked. For cats, carry the closed carrier to the prepared room, shut the room door, and then open the carrier.

Give your pet a few minutes before you ask anything from them. No baths unless medically needed. No big welcome party. No testing every command the shelter said they know. Water, bathroom chance, quiet space, and time are the real pickup day plan.

What should your first 24 hours with a new pet look like?

The first 24 hours should be quiet, slow, and a little boring. Your goal is not to see your pet's full personality on day one. Your goal is to help them feel safe enough to eat, drink, rest, and use the bathroom.

For a dog, go to the potty spot right away when you get home. Use a leash, even in a fenced yard, until you know the dog will not panic, dig, climb, or squeeze through a gap. Praise calmly if they go. Then bring them to the prepared sleeping area or main safe room.

For a cat, bring the carrier into the first room and close the door before opening it. Let the cat come out on their own. Some cats step out and sniff everything. Others sit in the carrier for an hour or hide behind the toilet. Both can be normal.

Offer water and a small meal using the familiar food. Do not worry if your new pet eats less than usual during the first day, especially if they are alert and otherwise comfortable. Watch more closely if they also vomit repeatedly, seem weak, have diarrhea, cough, breathe strangely, strain to pee, or act painful.

Common first day behaviors include:

• Hiding under furniture or staying in the carrier.
• Pacing, panting, whining, or following you from room to room.
• Sleeping very hard after arriving home.
• Not playing, even with toys they may like later.
• Sniffing everything and then crashing.
• Having a bathroom accident.
• Eating only a little or waiting until the room is quiet.

Keep introductions short. Kids can sit on the floor and toss treats, but they should not crowd, hug, chase, or wake a sleeping pet. Guests can wait. Other pets should be separated at first, even if everyone is friendly. Scent, sound, and calm distance are enough for day one.

Do not give a nervous pet a full house tour. Too many rooms make it harder to supervise and easier for accidents or hiding to happen. Let a dog explore one or two areas on leash. Let a cat stay in the first room until they are eating, using the litter box, and showing curiosity at the door.

If you adopted a dog and want a more detailed hour by hour plan, read your new dog's first 24 hours at home. The short version is this: low pressure, frequent potty breaks, simple meals, and sleep.

What should you do during the first week with a new pet?

The first week is for routine, observation, and trust. Keep feeding times, potty breaks, walks, litter box cleaning, bedtime, and quiet time as steady as you can. A predictable day helps your pet learn what happens next.

Use the first few days to track basics. Write down what your pet eats, drinks, pees, poops, and how they sleep. Note coughing, vomiting, scratching, limping, hiding, pacing, or accidents. If you call the vet, clear details are much more useful than saying, 'Something seems off.'

A simple first week rhythm can look like this:

1. Days 1 and 2: Keep the world small. Use the safe room or sleeping area, short potty trips, quiet meals, and very short interactions.
2. Days 3 and 4: Expand access slowly if your pet is eating, resting, and using the bathroom normally. Add one room, one short walk route, or one new household sound at a time.
3. Days 5 to 7: Start gentle training and handling. Practice name response, coming when called indoors, collar touches, brushing for a few seconds, and calm alone time.

The popular 3-3-3 idea says some rescue dogs may need about 3 days to decompress, 3 weeks to learn a routine, and 3 months to feel settled. It can be a helpful reminder, but it is not a promise or a deadline. Some pets relax quickly, and others need much longer. Paaw explains this in more detail in the 3-3-3 rule for rescue dogs.

If your pet seems scared, make life smaller and quieter. Reduce visitors, lower noise, give more distance, and reward tiny brave choices like looking at you, stepping out of a hiding spot, or taking a treat. Do not force cuddling to prove you are safe. Safety is shown by letting the pet move away.

If your pet seems overstimulated, add rest. Puppies and young dogs can look wild when they are overtired. Cats can bite or scratch when play goes on too long. Use naps, food puzzles, short training, and calm separation instead of nonstop activity.

If your pet seems too energetic, meet the need without flooding them. For dogs, use sniff walks, short training sessions, chew time, and food puzzles. Avoid dog parks in the first week because you do not yet know their health, recall, play style, or stress signals. For cats, use wand toy sessions, climbing options, and feeding games.

Delay guests and pet introductions until your new pet has some footing. Dog to dog, cat to cat, and dog to cat introductions are usually safer when they move in stages: scent first, sight at a distance, short supervised time, then more freedom if body language stays loose. One bad first meeting can be hard to undo.

For more detail beyond this checklist, read Paaw's guide to your new pet's first week. Keep the week simple. The bond grows faster when your pet can predict you.